Archive for July, 2009

Bird Eye – Step 1


eye-step-1

Bird Eyes

The bird eyes are done in what looked like a spider web.  The thing that got us about the eye was that it seemed messy.  Wendy was the one who recognized that it was a three leg spider web – which would be messy because it doesn’t have that much to keep it in place.  Here is the finished eye.  I will post the steps to work it over the next four days.  We used the Gilt Tambour Special for the eye.  What is “Gilt Tambour Special”, you ask?  It was a thread made for me by Benton and Johnson.  I said ’something heavier than X and lighter than Y’. It was perfect for doing gobelin background on linen.

Tricia

finished-eye

Adding Silver

So the silver tambour didn’t stitch as well as the gold.  When we ran our fingers down the length, you could feel that the overlap of the silver was a bit over the last wrap and so was bumpy.  That made it stitch worse.  You can see that I fought with it alot as the quality of my plaited braid lost it near the end.  I found the same with the heavy chain.  

Since the demand for metal threads is so small, the producers do very small batches and thus have less control over the wrapping sometimes.  I find every once in awhile, a batch is a bit harder to work with.  One of the things we have to live with in our fast shrinking embroidery industry.

Tricia

 

Silver Plaited Braid

Silver Plaited Braid

Tiny Plaited Braid

So we decided to use the lace thread for the plaited braid in the wing.  It makes the tiniest and cutest plaited braid ever!  Not that hard if you use a #7 Japanese needle.  The hardest part was doing it inside a stem stitched border as the thread was puffy around it and my needle would snag the black thread.  I put a pencil in the picture so you could get the scale and see it against the other plaited braid on the jacket. 

When I was researching these gold stitches over the last few years, I would see plaited braid at this scale and think – WHAT THE HECK?  I was blown away at the scale and my mind kept thinking – what kinda thread was this?  Well, now I know and it really looked cool.  I feel a few small scale projects in the offering for a thread of this type with gold stitches… my fingers are twitching and I spent a night looking at spot samplers right after working this.  

Tricia

Heavy Chain

I mentioned months ago that the wings of the bird were filled in with a variety of stitches (Bird Butts – A Long Tail on March 28th).  One of them was the heavy chain, a derivation of the reverse chain.  This went for the gold and silver filling on the wings too.  Some were done in heavy chain and some in plaited braid.  We hemmed and hawed for a bit trying to decide which of the three gold threads (Gilt #4 Passing on Silk, Gilt Tambour Special, and Gilt Tambour 9 drm) we would use on the wings.  The actual piece seemed to use a thinner gold and silver.  The problem was I only have two weights of silver (Silver #4 Passing on Silk and 90% silver Tambour 9 drm).  The weight I wanted was Gilt Tambour Special – a medium weight.  Finally, we decided to use the two tambour 9 drm versions so they would match in size.  This is the same thread we used for the lace.  Notice the small size when compared to the Soie Perlee.

Here you see part of the wing filled in with heavy chain and the stitch diagram (a free-bee for you!).

Tricia

Bird Feet – Again

Sometimes I get distracted from a subject and don’t get to finish postings.  Can we say that I have a bit of AD?  I got it from my kids.  So here are a few posts showing how we finished up the birds

So here is how we are finishing up the bird legs.  When I visited the jacket at the V&A, I saw fragments of thread that gave the impression of satin stitch over the reverse chain legs.  Once we worked our legs, they kinda looked a bit sparse – like the guys were standing on stilts or sawhorses.  So satin stitch we did.  Looks much better now!

Tricia

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The Amazing Jeni Bland

I have a picture to share with you today.  I don’t have the full story yet of this amazing accomplishment – but hope that Jeni will send me a nice email with her full story.

In short – Jeni made this jacket as a school project and used machine embroidery for part of it.  I have been trying to email her back to fully understand everything, but my email keeps bouncing from her server (tiscali.co.uk).  I am not sure why my responses keep failing – so I decided to put the photos out and beg her to email me or post the where, why and how!  I want to know about the lace, the vines, the flowers, the skirt…everything!

In one of her emails to me, she said that she didn’t have time during this project to do the full embroidery, so she would program a sewing machine to make it look similar from far away.  I think she accomplished that in spades!

Jeni – Please fill us in!

Tricia

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Our Young Apprentice

When we visited Holy Transfiguration Monastery, the Fathers were at first reticent to try to place spangles on the piece.  Always one to try to demystify embroidery – I brazenly called my nine-year old son over to the frame.  He enthusiastically took up the needle and took direction on how to sew on spangles.  I knew he would love to try – he loves to ‘make’ anything.  His personality and interests didn’t fall far from me!  He has visited the project many times over the last two years, often having to sit in the work room all day on a vacation from school or recovering from the latest cold that kept him home.  So he was familiar with the piece.

The Fathers were taken with his enthusiasm (I had to convince him to give up the frame so someone else could work on it!).  Later, Father Boniface brought out his own design work and needlepoint to show us and my son got really excited about the needlepoint he was showing us.

A few weeks later, a box showed up for my son from Father Boniface.  In it was a custom designed needlepoint kit for him.  He was thrilled and got to work right away.

More ripples…We threw a very small stone into the pond and this project continues to inspire others to share and grow.  I love it!

Tricia

Age 9

Age 9

Mailing List – What’s Next

If you notice a little button on the right hand bar – it says ‘Sign Up for Thistle Threads Newsletters’.  Have you joined yet?  Last month (May) the first newsletter went out and its topic was gold threads – including into that hasn’t shown up in the blog as they are techniques that aren’t found on the jacket.  The next one will be sent out at the beginning of next week.  I will give you a teaser below…join so you don’t miss out.  The newsletters are monthly at best.  Remember – I have to keep up the project, blog, Thistle Threads, Tokens and Trifles, my engineering business and sometimes I even cook dinner for my kids.  So there won’t be a torrent of email.  But there will be magnified pictures of historic embroidery that I have gotten permissions to show and similar technical info that you expect from the blog.  Are you intrigued yet?  On Monday I will send out the old newsletter for those who have joined recently so you don’t miss out on all the fun pictures.

Tricia

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Holy Transfiguration Monastery

If you remember, I was invited to visit the Holy Transfiguration Monastery by Father Boniface after I met him at the Holy Cross Convent.  He was true to his word and invited me and my family to bring over some of the jacket pieces to talk to the monks at their order over Memorial Day weekend.

We arrived to find a very vibrant atmosphere as it was just after services on Sunday.  The monastery is in a 1880 house built to look like a Jacobean summer home .  It is an outstanding residence and made even more serene by its grounds which were about 19 acres of gardens designed by the original neighbor – Fredrick Law Olmstead.

My hosts were delighted to hear about the jacket project, see the slides of the spangle making, and to work on the piece itself.  I have never seen such giggling out of joy from a group of monks.  Wendy and I love the picture at the top as it reminds us so much of the classic woodcut of the professional embroiderer by Jost Amman.  Father ‘B’, as he likes to be known, is perfectly poised in front of a Jacobean window.  Priceless.

amman-picture

Father Boniface and Father ‘B’ delighted my family by showing us the residence and their workshops.  Father ‘B’ demonstrated to my oldest son and I how to make the sacred prayer knots he spends his time making for sale from the monastery.  The monastery supports itself making painted icons, laminated icons, enameled crosses and other bronze icons.  They also process numerous tree resins and perfumed oils on site into incense.  We were fascinated by the processing of frankincense and loved seeing the storage area for these fragrant tree resins from Africa that you hear about in the Bible.

The original reason for the jacket was to star in an exhibit discussing how people of the past and present view each other thorough their appearance and often misunderstand each other.  While the exhibit is now not to be, the theme behind it is still strongly evident in the experience for me.  I have met people I never would have come across and have learned to look beyond our outward appearances to find that they are warm and fascinating people.  I feel blessed to have been able to meet all who are also  touched by the jacket.